He was fooling around on the edge - then his hand suddenly slipped

There are a lot of beautiful places in the world, but Lofoten might be the most beautiful place. A chain of islands far north in Norway, above the Arctic Circle. Spectacular nature, crystal clear blue water, and weather changing in an instant. Lofoten is also known for cod, yeah the fish. Dried cod is somewhat of a delicacy here. You'll see it hanging on display all over the islands. And the people here are known for being very direct. Or as we say in Norway, they speak from the liver. And they also swear a lot. They're known for that too. This trip was a surprise birthday present from my girlfriend. We stayed in Henningsvall the entire time, a town perhaps best known for having the most beautiful soccer field in the world. Lofoten Islands were first inhabited 11,000 years ago. Later it became home to the Vikings. And this is where the largest Viking longhouse was found. If you follow me on Instagram, you've probably seen this picture, and there's actually a video of it too. Yeah, it definitely wasn't as spectacular as it looked, but this video is not about exposing myself. Lofoten has some world-class bouldering, and that's what this video is about. This is your first time bouldering outside Marta. Yeah, I'm kind of Scared that I won't be able to climb anything that's above like four plus and this one Kingfisher 7a Mm-hmm. I've heard that everyone should try it regardless of the level because it's so nice Yes, I need to try it too or wouldn't you say and Mathias? Yeah, and I think also it's pretty epic to have our first outdoor bouldering session on this iconic boulder this is my local crack actually like I Started bouldering like only four years ago after I moved away from here, but my village is just ten minutes that direction So this is one of the closest boulders to where I grew up and you've done this boulder, right? Yeah, I've done this boulder twice, but you've not done the sit-start. No, maybe we should try the sit-start Maybe I should try the sit-start, but I don't even know if I'm in shape to do it at all now because it's pretty on my limit and It's been raining for three weeks here. So I haven't really been bouldering at all. So we have three crash pads now I guess it's enough for this polar. The top out doesn't look so bad It's like on the way here it was raining and now it's nice and then I guess we're gonna have some Sun It's not like Bergen it's not like Bergen that's good nothing is like Bergen though That's so easy man, I've never seen anyone do it that fast. That was very easy. The friction couldn't have been any better. Now it's perfect, because it just rained so the rock is clean, there's a little bit of wind and it's like 10 degrees Celsius, it's perfect. Are you supposed to climb on top of a boulder when you finish it? You need to top out this, but on some boulders you just let go of the top jug, but it's always nicer if you have to top out a boulder, because then you're standing on top of it, you feel like you really conquered it. It's so sticky right now, it feels like you can hold on to anything. It's officially a flash party! Now people can see how it's for normal people. I can't really warm up on 7b's. So I normally wouldn't ask you to try a 7a, but this one is exceptionally good. What would you say about the Lofoten Rock? I actually almost only bouldered outside Oslo in Osmarka and in Lofoten, and Lofoten is way superior. Where do you start? You start with one hand on this one, and one on this, if you can reach there. If not, you just start with both on that one. It's your first time climbing outside. It's a great way to start your outdoor climbing career, I think. Normally this is the rock that ends up on the front pages of the magazine. Yeah, I can try like one more time maybe. Oh, that wasn't very far. Well, now you have to come back. Yeah, you have to train a bunch first. I think with your progression lately, you're gonna quickly get on that level. So this one is 7a plus you said, right? It's a nice bowler. Maybe more, it's not only a red like the other one. Very good, Magnus, you still got it, did you rest yourself into shape, is that what you were saying? Like often when I don't climb so much or train so much, I lose a little bit of weight and that's also pretty good for outdoor climbing especially, so I feel light as a feather. I don't want to do it. Come on. Go to the right. Nice. I'm sorry to say this, but I fell down. You fell down? Yes. While I was doing this. Come on! Yes! Come on, Mathias! That was a good attempt. I didn't believe in it. You gotta believe, man. I have to believe. If not, there's not even a point. there's not even a point and you know when you project it you do it so many times so you have like all the moves really quickly now I had to stop every time and like how was it to do it yeah you have to think about the moves yeah when you project something you don't think about it you just act and I don't have the you totally this is totally below your level this is at the peak of my level so then it's kind of different you've done this before though right yes yeah I've done it a couple years ago but now i didn't have a chance it's been my personal best for over a year now so i have to i feel like i have to start doing exercises well you said you just bought a moon wall i just ordered it yeah a couple of days ago that's gonna make a difference when you start training on the moon wall yeah i hope so yeah because the gym over here it's only open like three four three times a week okay i think this is like one of the nicest boulders i ever tried what is it about it that makes it so nice I mean I don't understand how the rock quality is amazing and also how it climbs and just the way that the rock is shaped yeah it's also like the only way up that rock you know it's not like oh you're not allowed to go out right you're not allowed to go left it's just like so simple you start on a jug and you finish and you stand on top of the bowler how was the fall by the way wet and cold. I felt so bad because you were gonna flash it. And now the video is really bad. I was like. Oh we'll get a nice fail. Yeah. This is how it is. So where should we go next then? Maybe we should go to Monster, so that you get to try something a little bit more than one try. That's an 8a, right? Yeah, it's an 8a. You've been flashing everything, so now I think we have to go up to the 8s to knock it down a little. I don't have any bait on this, but I'm still going to try to flash it. It's going to be difficult. There are a lot of different holes, I don't know which ones to use, but I don't really care. give it one flash burn and if not I'm just gonna try to send it as quickly as possible. It's a little bit above my level but I'll try it with you, Magnus. This is what separates Magnus from the rest of us or the pros from the noobs. It took him like one minute to figure out like he has an idea for me to take like a couple of days. You can tell by the way that he looks at it how he solves it that he's been doing this before. It's a little bit cold now yeah but it's like perfect for bouldering. It's almost cheating when it's this good. My finger's froze a little bit now. It's good, it was just dry fire. It hurts a lot though. But still you don't want to warm up, you don't want to warm up, it's cool. I thought I had it that time. I was not ready for the sound of you falling, it sounded more intense than at the bouldering gym. Come on. Still not as strong as Magnus. I got scared because I jammed my heel in so high, I was like I'm going to break it off This is the problem I'm glad we found something you thought was a little bit hard although it was third try. There's an AP around the corner. What do you say? It'd be cool to try the moose at least. I think this is the hardest boulder in Lofoten. Pressure's on. Well, actually the pressure is off then. At least I got to match that, oh that's hard to match, it's such a bad omikling. You did it differently than you thought you were? Either you go like this, come in and match, and then you have to turn this around, but I think this way is better, because you don't have to do that move. Maybe you can try it with a one minute warm-up and see if that helps. I'm just going to try all the moves and then start trying it from the ground again. Oh, that's so hard. I can't get my fingers into it now. Weird how you did that move on the first try. Yeah. That's why I don't warm up. So now my fingers are warm and sweaty. You're saying you're better when you're cold? Yeah. That's some badass shit. Come on! Come on! Come on, dude. It feels impossible now. It feels impossible now. I don't know how I did that the first time. You did it very easily too. Shirt comes on. That's a bit unusual for you. Yeah. Well that means it's over. But we're going to try a 7C. A classic 7C. classic 7c. It was one of the first 7c's. It was the hardest boulder in Lofoten for a while. You should get to climb a little bit as well. Yeah I need to try a bit. So far you've only touched a few holds on Kingfisher and it would be cool to come back here and try some of these boulders for real. I mean this is not the only 8b here, there are more. Yeah there are a lot of hard boulders here. Yeah and a lot of projects and I think it'd be cool to spend like a month up here. But don't you take like little too short breaks when you're trying these hard boulders. Normally I think people do like at least five minute breaks when they're on 8b's. I don't have patience for that. This one looks hard for 7b. It's hard to say how to do it. I don't really have a plan. I couldn't get very far so I don't remember that much. Yeah. There's this story about this German really strong climber who was here when he saw the other guys struggling with him and then he just laughed and said ha ha you idiots it's a hook back in the days when you could be a bit cocky you know yeah you're saying you're not allowed to be cocky anymore I think you are but people are so politically correct these days I have a new mission here in bouldering, I became a reference boulderer, which is kind of pretty cool but hard. No, it's not that hard, but it's nice. Okay, I think that was it for me today. Now you guys can climb for the rest of the day. But that was a really cool boulder. I'm glad you enjoyed it. You want to try it too? I'm gonna have a go so that you have a reference point. It looked a little bit too easy there. To work on this and then right foot just right down, yeah. And then You go left hand to this, then left hand, and then you release the toe. Yeah, something like here. Come on. Yeah, yeah, come on. Go. I don't feel it. Come on. That was good. Really good. I did a different bit right here. It will be a PB when I do this shit, I have a mental block on it. Not today, but one day. Is it easy to find people to bother with here in Lofoten? It's not that easy, like I've been messaging these guys on Instagram, being like hey guys I need a crew. But we live an hour apart as well, so it's not that easy. And I really suck at bouldering alone, because I get scared and I don't push myself enough. You're surfing as well, right? I do bouldering and surfing, and then I have like this place in Flakstad that I rent out to tourists. So it's a small guest house, that's where I'm building the moon wall actually, to try to get more climbers to visit us. Surfing and bouldering is world class. I only bouldered here and I only surfed here, or I surfed other places as well. With bouldering I have some sort of natural talent, with surfing I have absolutely no talent at all, but I still enjoy it a lot. I think actually, you know, bouldering sort of makes you like a little bit like this, and then surfing makes you a little bit like this, so maybe if you do both you'll be a bit normal. You sure you want your first ever boulder to be a high ball? It's pretty high. Oh, that it's a high boulder. I'm in. I think it looks like it's like a 4 plus or 3 plus or something like that. Getting down was the hardest part. Was that a good warm up? Yeah, that was okay. Yeah. I climbed super slowly though, I just wanted to be sure that I didn't take any risks since we only have two crash pads. Yeah. It was pretty sketchy. I mean that boulder was probably like six meters tall. So this here is a 6a and it looks really nice. I think it's perfect grade for you, but it's like there's one pretty long move, so the landing here is kind of bad. Because you see it's not flat. I don't know, I think I should climb it first just to find the good holds and find the beta. And then I can also put some chalk and some tick marks maybe if you need to. Do you have to like top it? Yeah, this one you have to top up. Okay. Some boulders you top up, some boulders you don't. There are no colored holds here except for white holds. And I think this is a sick start too. So you have to start really low. start here probably from a sitting position you have to do a lift off so like this and then you can stop okay and then you start yeah okay that makes sense so that's harder than doing a stand start yeah i don't know you could do this more as a stand start too yeah there's not so many poles here oh it's tiny yeah I don't know, it's a little bit sketchy for you maybe. The first move was actually not so easy. Maybe you should just start with the stand start and then you can do the sit start later if you do the stand start. Okay. I'll give you a good spot at least. I feel a lot safer just having someone spotting me. Is that the correct word? Spotting? Yeah. I don't know if you can see it, but there are a lot of people here. It's a bit cold. What? Scary It was fun though. I got a lot of adrenaline It was really scary, I probably looked super stupid on the camera and got up like one meter. The problem isn't the height, the problem is that it's so uneven, the ground, so you feel like you fall really weird. Yeah, I definitely wasn't able to try my hardest because I was scared, and I was like, I have to jump, I have to jump! Maybe we should try a different one, because I think we need more pads for this one. Yeah, I think that one over there is like a 5+, or maybe 6a. A lot of small holes, which I like. Yeah, it would be nice to like finish a boulder that's a bit harder than like 4+, so... Yeah. I'm going to try and get a good shot of the view from up here. It's not that great, but it's worth it. I think it's going to be a little bit of Yeah Maybe not the most fun bowler but I like it though because it was really small, crimpy holes Yeah, there were holes everywhere but none of them were like really good Yeah, I'm not good at knowing like what's a good looking bowler You keep talking about like a nice line. Yeah, nice line and like to me like everything kind of looks the same But you you're always like, oh my god, this is so like aesthetically like Kingfisher is a nice line Yeah, it's very obvious where to climb on that boulder I mean to me it wouldn't have been if like you didn't tell me but you also have the tape on your finger Yeah hardcore just waiting for that to happen. So I can like yes Look like a real climber. Yeah, we see that on Instagram, you know people taping their fingers Make sure to like and subscribe as always, check out Moffed on Instagram, also check out the Wrong Knee Shop and We'll see you guys in the next video